Abercrombie & Kent Travel Logs

Read about the experiences of Abercrombie & Kent travellers in their own words, and learn what makes an A&K journey so uniquely satisfying.

Crew welfare chart
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 18, 2013 – At Sea, Drake Passage, Beagle Channel

We pulled back the curtains to a great expanse of sea in all directions. Conditions were very moderate, with just enough wind to create a gentle rocking motion. An occasional black-browed albatross made a pass by the ship, investigating the “unusual large grey object” plying its way northward through the Drake Passage. Reading a [...]

Goodbye Antarctica!
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 17, 2013 – At Sea, Drake Passage

The Drake Passage showed its kind face this morning, with only a gentle rocking of the ship as we steamed northwards. A dense fog enveloped the ship creating a mysterious feel to the morning, augmented by the fact that not a single bird was seen around the ship for several hours. Some of us [...]

Lemaire Channel
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 16, 2013 – Port Lockroy, Neko Harbor

We began our final day in Antarctica with a walk out on deck to again soak in the incredible scenery here along the Antarctic Peninsula. Following breakfast, our rubber chariot sliced through the dark sea en route to Port Lockroy, with its huge mountains topped by wisps of clouds. We stepped ashore at one [...]

Crabeater seal
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 15, 2013 – Wilhelmina Bay, Cuverville Island

We awoke to spectacular Antarctic scenery all around us, with mountain peaks rising up through ice as far as the eye could see. ‘Le Boreal’ was in the famed Gerlache Strait, named for Adrien de Gerlache who led the Belgica expedition in this area in 1897-1899. Soon the ship angled south into Wilhelmina Bay, [...]

Charley Wheatley
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 14, 2013 – At Sea, Penguin Island

We awoke to a special visitor this morning playing in the winds on the starboard side of the ship: an Antarctic petrel! This species is one of only three bird species that nests exclusively on the Antarctic continent itself (the other two being the South polar skua and the emperor penguin).  The bird stayed [...]

Shipshape
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 13, 2013 – At Sea, En Route to Antarctica

As the night progressed, the strong low pressure system moved further and further to the east of us, and the seas began to lay back down. By morning, the outer decks were again open to us, and there was an optimistic buzz at breakfast as we left the rough sea adventure behind us. We [...]

Rough seas
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 12, 2013 – At Sea, En Route to Antarctica

The roller coaster ride began late last night, with the swell from a nearby low pressure system building as 40-knot winds continued to blow. Still, the time change back last night gave us an excuse to sleep in a bit before carefully making our way to breakfast to fuel up for the day. Naturalist [...]

Drygalski fjord
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 11, 2013 – Drygalski Fjord, At sea en route to Antarctica

The blue skies and calm seas of yesterday seemed a distant memory this morning when we pulled back the curtains. Strong winds tore across the sea surface, sending spray and white water into the air. Our plan for a Zodiac tour at Hamilton Bay was impossible in these conditions, so Captain Etienne Garcia took [...]

St Andrews wildlife
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 10, 2013 – St. Andrews Bay, Grytviken

With some blue sky peaking through the clouds, we arrived at yet another spectacular South Georgia site called St. Andrews Bay. As we approached, we excitedly spied the stunning scenery of towering mountain peaks and heard the calls of king penguins echoing out across the bay. It was truly amazing to be in the [...]

Right Whale Bay
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 9, 2013 – Right Whale Bay, Stromness

Under cover of fog, Captain Etienne Garcia carefully maneuvered ‘Le Boreal’ into the Bay of Isles and lowered a Zodiac into the water to check the landing at Salisbury Plain. However, due to the incessant wind, a hefty swell was pouring into the bay and causing large waves to break on the beach. Expedition [...]

IAATO briefing
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 8, 2013 – At Sea, Shag Rocks

The strong tailwind continued, with white caps glowing brightly under a clear blue sky. Following a time change forward the night before, most of us opted for a late breakfast before gathering in the Theater for ornithologist Patricia Silva’s introduction to penguins entitled, “Birds in Tuxedos: Why Do They Look Different?” Patricia began with [...]

Decktime
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 7, 2013 – At Sea, En Route to South Georgia

We awoke to a strong wind pushing ‘Le Boreal’ in the direction of South Georgia, and a number of wandering albatrosses following along with the ship. With the wind behind the vessel, the ride through the Scotia Sea was quite smooth. Many of us slept in a bit before socializing over scrambled eggs and [...]

Two-banded Plover
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 6, 2013 – Sea Lion Island, Bleaker Island

Under a glorious sunrise, ‘Le Boreal’ dropped anchor just outside the kelp forest ringing Sea Lion Island. The sound of bellowing elephant seals reverberated from the beach, while blue-eyed shags flew past the ship as they traveled back and forth to their nesting sites on the island. We went ashore and landed on a [...]

Parka exchange
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 5, 2013 – At Sea, En Route to Falkland Islands

As we stepped outside with a cup of coffee in hand this morning, the last remnant of the South American continent was just barely visible off in the distance behind us. During the night, ‘Le Boreal’ had left the shelter of the Beagle Channel, and we could now feel the power of the Southern [...]

Ushuaia
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 4, 2013 – Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

We landed in the small city of Ushuaia, all of us arriving from distant reaches of the planet for the same reason: to embark on an expedition to experience the wildlife and landscapes of the Falklands, South Georgia and the magnificent continent of Antarctica. As our respective flights approached amid striking views of the [...]

Bob Burton
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 3, 2013 – At Sea, Drake Passage, Beagle Channel

The morning greeted us with blue skies, a strong wind coming from the port bow and the occasional albatross making a close pass by the ship before banking off into the distance. It was quite peaceful looking out over the great expanse of sea, listening to the sound of ‘Le Boreal’ plying its way [...]

Patricia’s drawing
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 2, 2013 – At Sea, Drake Passage

We awoke to the gentle rocking of the Southern Ocean, though some of us slept in a bit, just because we could. It had been quite a stretch of very active days of landings in Antarctica, so a low-key day to relax and recuperate was very welcome. After a leisurely breakfast and some good [...]

Cuverville Island
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

January 1, 2013 – Neko Harbor, Cuverville Island

We had a reasonably civilized start time this morning, considering that some of us were still in the pool in the early morning hours celebrating New Years Eve. The cold air greatly helped the wake up process, and soon we found ourselves speeding ashore in a Zodiac bound for Cuverville Island. The gentoo penguins [...]

Lemaire Channel
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

December 31, 2012 – Petermann Island, Vernadsky Station

Under misty morning light, ‘Le Boreal’ approached the northern entrance to the legendary Lemaire Channel, often aptly referred to as “Kodak Alley” for its spectacular scenery. This 7-mile-long and one-mile-wide channel separates Booth Island from the Antarctic continent with dramatic, towering snow-covered mountains lining the route on both sides. Expedition leader Larry Hobbs gave [...]

Half Moon Is
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

December 30, 2012 – Halfmoon Island, Deception Island

With spectacular mountain scenery all around, Captain Etienne Garcia dropped anchor off of Halfmoon Island in the South Shetlands. The Zodiacs landed in calm conditions on a cobble beach with several chinstrap penguins in attendance to greet us. The decaying remains of an old wooden boat were laying slightly above the shoreline, and the [...]

Rich Pagen
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

December 29, 2012 – Bransfield Strait, Gourdin Island

Late last night, Captain Etienne Garcia was called up to the bridge by the officers on watch. Significant amounts of sea ice were situated between ‘Le Boreal’ and her destination, the Antarctica Sound. Even though the most recent ice chart had shown that the area was clear, wind and ocean currents can often turn [...]

Ice!
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

December 28, 2012 – At Sea, En Route to Antarctica

We awoke to grey skies and calm seas as ‘Le Boreal’ steamed towards the Antarctic Peninsula. A line of ice was visible on the port side, the sea ice edge that was well north of its usual location for this time of year. In fact, during the early morning hours, Captain Etienne Garcia had [...]

Iceberg
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

December 27, 2012 – At Sea, En Route to Antarctica

The strong winds we experienced upon leaving South Georgia were coming from the stern of the ship, and the amount of ship movement during the night was quite minimal. So we had a restful sleep on board that was made all the better by the time change during the night, giving us the gift [...]

Choppy seas
Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands

December 26, 2012 – Drygalski Fjord, At sea en route to Antarctica

The sky was just brightening as ‘Le Boreal’ pulled in the bay at Gold Harbor.  Expedition leader Larry Hobbs and Captain Etienne Garcia were on the bridge with binoculars glued to their faces, assessing the conditions at the north corner of the beach, where we hoped to do a sunrise landing this morning. However, [...]

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